Best Torque Wrench for Dirt Bike Maintenance

If you want to maintain your own bike, make sure you have proper tools. A friend of mine tried to save money on tools and broke off the bolt that was covering the oil filter. Even the trip to Home Depot didn’t help, so he eventually had to spend almost $100, also wasting a lot of time because he wanted to maintain the bike himself without the proper tools.

Torque Wrenches

Torque wrenches are key tools when it comes to dirt bike maintenance. Make sure that you own a high-quality torque wrench if you want to conduct your dirt bike maintenance yourself. A high-end torque wrench that I recommend is the Park Tool Ratcheting Torque Wrench – TW-5.2. It is ideal for the common and finer jobs involving seat-posts and handlebars, perfectly tailored for dirt bikes. You will have to spend a bit of extra money, but it will make your dirt bike maintenance that bit easier, inspiring confidence and getting the job done. Don’t waste money or other high-end torque wrenches; they usually aren’t designed for dirt bikes. This will be worth the money you spend on it.

A good mid-range torque wrench that I recommend is the Bikehand Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set Kit. When the wrench is new or hasn’t been used in a long time, it needs to be used in order to lubricate it internally, making it work like it should. This will solve any problems you might have with it. It is extremely useful for the small jobs you need to do on your bike.
What to look for in a dirt bike torque wrench

All torque wrenches are not the same. Some torque wrenches generate a number of different complaints, the most common of which revolve around accuracy. So, you have to know what to look for if you want your torque wrench to do the job for you.

The first thing to look for in a torque wrench is that is covers between 3 and 15 pounds of torque, the commonest range for bolts when it comes to dirt bikes. Be careful not to purchase a torque wrench starting at 20-foot pounds, in the manner of a normal torque wrench. Such a torque wrench will be useless when it comes to your dirt bike. What you need is a torque wrench that measures the lower torque settings required by dirt bikes. Even though there isn’t a bolt in dirt bikes that needs tightening only 2-foot pounds, it is handy to have a torque wrench starting low, since torque wrenches reach their highest levels of accuracy when in the middle of their range.

You will also have to choose between analogue torque wrenches and digital ones. Some analogue torque wrenches produce great accuracy in the scale’s middle but lose accuracy and the scale’s start and end. Therefore, you may prefer a torque wrench with a digital readout, enabling you to achieve higher levels of accuracy. However, bear in mind that digital torque wrenches are considerably more expensive than their analogue counterparts.

Choosing between ½” 3/8” and ¼” drives can be difficult. I recommend a ¼” one, since it will work well for those bolts on a dirt bike which are of the greatest importance. If you have the budget and the desire to have an additional torque wrench, go for the ¾”.

Look for a torque wrench which has a readout that is backlit, enabling you to gauge the measurement easily in poorly lit garage environments.

Buy torque wrenches that can provide measurements to the tenth of a pound, if not better. The manual will most likely provide instruction such as, “tighten the bolt to 5.1ft/lbs.” Therefore, your torque wrench should be able to do that. There are a lot of torque wrenches on the market that are made to cater to heavy machinery such as truck tires. These won’t provide accurate measurements for dirt bike purposes. Be careful to avoid them.

You want a torque wrench capable of staying calibrated for long periods of time, ensuring continued accuracy. Cheaper torque wrenches, in the style of ‘beam and pointer,’ are easily bent or broken.

You will also want to ensure that the torque wrench you purchase is the right size, that it can work well with those bolts that you will find yourself working with most commonly on your dirt bike. The bolts on dirt bikes are considerably smaller than the bolts on, for instance, truck engines.

Different Types of Torque Wrenches

You will find a wide variety of different torque wrenches on the market, each possessing its own advantages and disadvantages. Here is a look at a few of them.

Click Wrench

This is a very useful wrench, permitting users to achieve the proper torque setting. Once the right setting is reaches, the wrench starts slipping, preventing the overtightening of bolts.

Beam and Pointer Torque Wrenches

These torque wrenches are the cheapest available on the market. They possess a tiny scale along with a pointer, resembling one of those old bathroom scales. They are cheap for a reason, being susceptible to getting bent easily, and often showing readings that are inaccurate. Their inaccuracy is prevalent even in torque settings that are lighter.

Plumber’s Wrench

This is similar to the click wrench, in that it slips upon reaching the optimal torque setting. However, it comes with a handle that is T-shaped.

Hydraulic Torque Wrench

This is a torque wrench that is motorized, most often used for automotive. It’s commonly seen in racing pits.

Deflecting Beam Wrench

These torque wrenches don’t apply torque to a coil spring, applying it instead to a deflecting beam.

How To Use It

Tips and Tricks to Maintaining Your Wrench

The first step to maintaining your torque wrench is checking it from time to time for defective parts and wear and tear. If you don’t do this, your wrench’s accuracy will be compromised. As long as you structure your maintenance program efficiently, preventing damage before it occurs, your tool will perform to optimum capacity, reducing unexpected downtime, saving you both time as well as money.

A torque wrench goes out of calibration with use, the more frequent the use, the quicker it will go out of calibration and wear. Therefore, you must monitor the number of times you use your torque wrench in a day, or the total number of hours you use it for, keeping your wrench accurate, ensuring that you conduct maintenance work on it at regular intervals. Consult your manufacturer’s recommendations to determine how often you should service your wrench, or service it after every 100,000 cycles, or when you inspect it visually to find dry or old grease, components that are unstable and loose and parts displaying signs of wear that is excessive.

Inspect the ratchet of your wrench for wear, making sure it is clean and lubricated. From time to time inspect its screws, making sure that they are right, and that the ratchet is spinning freely upon being turned. Make sure that the wrench’s handle is not loose, is free of lubricants and corrosion every time it is made use of. Should you fail to inspect these aspects, fail to replace the parts that are worn, you risk the premature failure of your wrench.

The wrench needs to be protected from chemicals, grime, dust as well as other hazards by being stored properly inside a case or in a storage device that is clean and dry. The wrench needs to be cleaned from the outside using a dry cloth. Don’t use chemical solvents or external cleaning fluids, as these cause corrosion in the internal lubrication of your wrench, resulting in premature failure. If, for some reason, the wrench needs to be disassembled, make sure that you follow the instructions provided to you in documents by its manufacturers. If you’re unsure how to follow those instructions, send the wrench to technicians who are competent and know what they’re doing.

The majority of click wrenches are constructed to possess a spring mechanism inside them, a spring mechanism compressed against a lever. Wrenches that are adjustable employ springs which have to pass a linear capability test. Click wrenches that are externally adjustable must be restored to their minimum scale value after they have been used, helping the preservation of the spring’s linearity and the wrench’s calibration. Make sure that you restore them to their minimum settings when you store any calibrated wrenches. If you leave a calibrated wrench lying around at one particular setting, it loses its accuracy at other settings. This doesn’t happen each time but can occur over time. This is why you should restore a calibrated wrench to its minimum setting when it is not being used.

Torque wrenches are precision tools and ought to be maintained and treated like measuring instruments. You need to be careful and make sure you don’t drop your torque wrench upon things. This can make them inaccurate.

Do not use your torque wrench for the purpose of untightening bolts; use them only for the purpose of tightening bolts, and that too when accurate torque settings are required. For other purposes, use regular wrenches.

Don’t Go Cheap

Don’t go cheap unless you really want to test your luck. In the event that your torque wrench doesn’t work properly, you may end up shearing off a bolt on your dirt bike, resulting in more wastage of time and money. If you want to make your own luck, go with the Bikemaster 1/4″ digital torque wrench.

What Does a Torque Wrench do Anyway?

The basic purpose of torque wrenches is to help the user to determine the exact pressure that is being applied in turning a bolt. People are often surprised to discover exactly how lightly some bolts on a dirt bike should be turned. Users often apply too much pressure or force when turning bolts, resulting in strict parts as well as the breaking off of bolts. Dirt bike manuals inform users of exactly what poundage is required for the bike’s different specific bolts. Different pressure is required for different bolts. It is a job that cannot be left to guess-work but has to be undertaken with precision and research beforehand. The dirt bike manual is the one and only place where users can discover what the exact numbers are. If you happen to not have a manual of your own, you can always easily access manuals online.

Calibration of the Torque Wrench

A torque wrench is a tool requiring extra care and attention, with adjustments needing to be periodically adjusted. A torque wrench should be calibrated by a professional once or so every year. But you can do it at home as well. Here’s how.

Make a mark on the torque wrench’s drive, in the center, on the back. Take a measurement starting at the mark you have made, to the area on which you would place your hand in the process of using the wrench, making another mark there, the second mark. Calculate the distance between these two marks. Fix the square head within a bench vise, ensuring that no other of the wrench’s parts makes contact with the vise. Then adjust the handle, positioning it horizontally. Match the torque value to the setting of the distance obtained between the two marks. Hang weights of the same value as the torque value from the marks you drew. If you hear a click coming from the wrench, then raise the weight, slowly moving it up towards the wrench’s head right until you stop hearing the clicking. Mark the place roughly, repeating the process to ensure that you have the right spot. In case you don’t hear a clicking in the beginning, take the weight away from the wrench’s head until the clicking starts. Mark it and repeat to ensure you get the right spot. Your mark will be more accurate once you obtain the same spot after checking two or more times of checking.

Make a measurement of the space lying between the square head and the click mark, deriving a number you will need to put into the calibration equation. In order to discover the real amount of torque, multiply the distance you’ve acquired by 20 pounds.

Apply the following formula: Ta=Ts×(D1/D2), where Ta stands for torque applied, and Ts stands for torque setting, and D1 for the distance between the first two marks you made and finally D2 stands for the distance you last discovered.

Make sure that there are no errors in your math, and then adjust the torque wrench accordingly.

Torque Wrench Repair

A torque wrench can be repaired in many ways, restoring its accuracy, preventing you from having to waste money on a new one, or have it repaired by a professional. Several things can go wrong with a torque wrench, including the clicker not working properly. If you open up a torque wrench you can figure out how its various mechanisms work. This can enable you to fix minor problems with the torque wrench yourself. Here are a few ways you can employ to repair your torque wrench.

Reassembling

The first way to repair a wrench is by reassembling it. What this involves, essentially, is disassembling the torque wrench and then putting it back together again, making careful note of calibration errors. If the wrench was off in its accuracy, or its parts were not functioning properly, you will find that reassembling it in a tightly, securely and precisely will suffice to restore its accuracy. However, you don’t want to do this unless you are really knowledgeable when it comes to the various parts of the torque wrench. Go ahead if you’re confident in your abilities.

Cleaning It Out

You will notice that your torque wrench will, over time, start to contain buildups of oil in its crevices as you use it to maintain your dirt bike. The way to deal with this is to disassemble it, wiping out the parts using a damp cloth, applying the same procedure to the outer part of the wrench. Keeping your wrench clean is very important. It sustains accuracy and prevents the parts from getting worn.

Checking for Breaks or Cracks

The metal of your torque wrench can occasionally break or crack. Therefore, inspect your torque wrench closely and frequently for any physical damage that it may have sustained. Should you discover such damage, you will want to buy a replacement wrench. This is the only safe solution. Breaks and cracks are not something that you can fix at home. It is vitally important to know what kinds of problems can be repaired, and what kinds cannot.

If you employ the practices given above, your torque wrench will remain in top notch condition for a long time. Make sure that you clean your wrench often, storing it in a dry place. Don’t lend it out to people who may not treat it with the care it needs. Treat your tools with love and care, ensuring that whatever projects you undertake will be successful.

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Dirt Bike Tire Pressure PSI Important or Not?

Motocross teams are constantly testing and tweaking their vehicles, striving to gain even the slightest of edges over their competitors. This testing and tweaking ranges from minuscule adjustments on their clickers to chain tension. They do whatever is in their power to create a faster and smoother bike, keeping their riders in the lead during races. An adjustment commonly glossed over by team mechanics is tire pressure, also known as psi (pounds per square inch). This adjustment can turn out to be crucial.

It is possible, of course, to ride on dirt bike tires which feel sufficiently good. However, riding with the right inflation in your tires is a completely different experience. The right inflation depends on the kind of terrain that you will be riding on. It is astonishing what a vast difference this factor can make to your riding experience. Tire pressure is very different in cars and bikes. In cars, a pound here or there doesn’t really have a big impact; but in dirt bikes it can be hugely influential. The right tire pressure gives you the ability to leave your friends far behind in the course of a ride or a race.

There is a lot of confusion over what the right tire pressure is when it comes to dirt bikes, and that’s no surprise: it is a confusing issue. Many dirt bike riders prefer not to get into the nitty gritty, opting for the usual 12 psi in the front and 12 psi in the back. Some riders add an extra half a pound to the back. However, this doesn’t take terrain into account. Riding off-road, for instance, requires higher tire pressure as compared to riding in sandy conditions, on a soft terrain. Dune riding, likewise, requires even lower tire pressure.

Another factor that riders need to take into account when determining tire pressure is the weather, with tire pressure increasing when the tire becomes hot. As a general rule, on fair weather days there won’t be a notable increase in the tire pressure as a result of riding. But on a hot day, say a 100-degrees, the tire pressure could be impacted by a few pounds. Since it takes very little time for a tire to heat up, it will only take a few laps for you to know how the weather is impacting the tire pressure overall. Altitude will also impact tire pressure. Be sure to check the tire pressure right before you start riding, and then again 30 minutes after you have been riding.

The best motocross teams give importance to even the slightest changes in psi, making adjustments of as little as a quarter of a pound. This is a good index of how important tire pressure is.

Always check tire pressure once you have reached your destination as opposed to checking it the night before when you’re at home. The reason for this is that elevation changes cause changes in tire pressure.

Ideal PSI for Trail or Track Conditions

If you’re riding off-road or on a track, you will want to begin with 12 psi in the front tire and 12.5-13 in the back tire.

When it comes to off-road, higher tire pressure is geared towards preventing flats rather than increasing speed, harder tires being one solid defense against getting flats, softer tires being easily punctured. By employing a Bib-Mouse, you can save yourself having to guess the ideal tire pressure. It supplies a consistent psi of 13 and removes the requirement for air. The disadvantage of a Bib-Mousse is that it is difficult to install and can only be used by Michelin Tires. If Michelin isn’t your brand, use a heavy-duty tube.

A psi of 12 is the ideal psi to start with when it comes to motocross tracks. Once you have a better assessment of the terrain, and you know whether you will be riding in blue groove or sand, you can adjust the tire pressure accordingly before you set off riding. Determining these factors is what you use a walk through and practice ride for. Most motocross tracks publish the riding conditions typically expected and can be a good source to decide your ideal tire pressure.

On sandy tracks, you need lower tire pressure. You can reduce your front tire psi to 11 and rear tire psi to 11.5. However, if you’re riding on hard pack, you want 13 psi font and 13.5 psi for the back. Also take the weather into consideration. If it’s hot outside, the tire pressure will increase as the tires become hot.

How to Prevent Punctures

Tire pressure is closely related to how often the tires on your bike get punctured. As a general rule, higher pressure helps in the prevention of flats, making the tire compress less upon impact with hard objects, making it likelier that the hard objects will simply bounce off. However, if the tire pressure is too high, that can create problems of other kinds.

TUbliss offers another option when it comes to the prevention of punctures. It involves the insertion of a small tube within the rim, that is set to very high psi, preventing the rims from getting damaged, attaching the tire strongly to the rim.

A mousse provides a third alternative for the prevention of flats. Mousses are cheap, making it impossible for any type of flat to occur. Their downside is that they are extremely heavy, and also they last for only 6 months.

Individuality

As is the case with other things in life, no two dirt bike riders are the same. There is a touch of individuality involved with everything. Ricky Carmichael, for instance, is famous for having ridden with the bars almost nestled in his lap. It is conceivable that you might be comfortable riding with 8 psi tires. At the end of the day it’s a question of what you’re comfortable with. But do bear in mind that if your back tire has a tendency to break loose of the front tire doesn’t remain planted when you turn corners, it just might point to an issue with tire pressure, provided that there is no problem with the other mechanics of your bike.

Even a Single Pound Can Make a Difference

A single pound worth of change when it comes to tire pressure results in nearly a 10% adjustment. It causes a change in the knob footprint, casing stiffness and overall traction, a change that can be exponential. When you’re dealing with tire pressure you’re dealing with a very sensitive issue, an issue that factories manage by as little as quarter-pound adjustments. So, when you’re adjusting the psi, adhere to increasing or decreasing it by a single psi. From there, you can fine tune it further in ½ or even ¼ psi increments.

Susceptibility to Flattening

The front tire of your dirt bike is more susceptible to being flattened. It possesses a cavity that is smaller, therefore less in air volume. If the tire pressure is the same for front and back tires, the impact required to flatten the front tire is significantly less.

How to Tell if the Tire Pressure is Too Great

The signs of excessive tire pressure are that there will be excessive wheelspin and a lack of grip. Additionally, there will be the absence of ‘rim clean.’

The General Rule of Tire Pressure

As a general rule, the tire pressure when it comes to dirt bikes can be anywhere between 6psi and 18psi as far as traditional tires are concerned. The commonest tire pressure recommended by passionate dirt bike riders is 12psi. If you consider yourself an average dirt bike rider with a bike that is average, riding on a terrain that is average, we recommend that you set 12psi as your tire pressure and forget about getting into the intricacies of tire pressure. If not, then it is important that you be aware of the exceptions of the 12psi guideline. It is not applicable to all circumstances. There is a lot of nuance that goes into choosing the right tire pressure for your bike.

Higher Tire Pressure: the Benefits

There are a few benefits that accrue from high tire pressure. The first of these is that it increases your speed, provided all else remains equal. Secondly, high tire pressure gives protection to the rim and the tire, protection from impact on solid object such as rocks. This is particularly useful if you’re riding on rough terrain, with plenty of sharp rocks and tree roots on it. If this is the kind of terrain that you will be riding on, you should consider increasing your tire pressure up to 15 psi. Higher tire pressure is also beneficial for riders who are heavier, requiring greater cushion.

Lower Tire Pressure: the Benefits

The first benefit that lower tire pressure brings is that is offers better traction. This is particularly useful if you’re riding on official motocross tracks, tracks where you know that there aren’t any sharp objects like tree roots and boulders around. Lower tire pressure is also useful light weight riders, riders whose weight won’t press the tires down. It is also wonderful for loose terrains, including loose rock, mud and soft clay. You can drop the tire pressure down to around 9psi if you’re riding on terrain like sand.

Four Factors Impacting Tire Pressure

The first factor that impacts tire pressure is the tire type that is used. Secondly, the riders weight will have a bearing on it, heavier riders requiring high tire pressure, lighter riders requiring low tire pressure. Thirdly, the type of terrain will impact tire pressure, hard and rocky surfaces requiring high tire pressure and loose terrains like mud requiring low tire pressure. Fourthly, and lastly, the kind of protection that the rider prefers to use on his/her tires will have an impact on tire pressure. Low tire pressure will create greater traction but can easily damage the rims.

Tire Pressure for 4-Stroke Bikes

The weight transfer on 4-stroke bikes is different from what it is on 2-stroke bikes. 4-strokes have a tendency to smash through obstacles rather than skimming over them, a characteristic that puts greater load upon the front tire as compared to the back tire. While the typical tire pressure for the front wheel on 2-strokes is 12psi, on 4-strokes it should be increased to 14psi. The back tire can remain at 12psi.

Things to Watch out for

If your tire pressure should drop too low in the course of a ride, there will be several things to alert you to the fact, signifying that it is time to increase the tire pressure. One such sign is that you will feel as though the bike doesn’t corner tightly; this is caused by the tire roll. You may also experience a loose kind of wobble in your tires when you’re riding and medium speeds. These are signs that your tire pressure is too low. Another such sign is if the rims start getting dinged up or bent. Prior to this you will, in all likelihood, experience it while riding and the rims get hit hard.

In case the tire pressure is excessively high, you might notice that the tire loses grip when riding on loose terrain. Additionally, the tires will spin more than they ought to.

One other way of gauging the right tire pressure is by observing the ‘rim clean.’ Where the rim meets the tire, you can observe a small shinier ring all around its edge. That shiny area belongs the part where the tire has been rubbing upon the rim. That is referred to as the rim clean. The majority of riders recommend that the shiny area, the rim clean, ought to be 3-4mm, indicating that the tire pressure is ideal. Should the rim clean be too big, it indicates low tire pressure, tire pressure that needs to be increased. If it is too small, it indicates excessively high tire pressure, tire pressure that needs to be decreased.

Get a Good Quality Tire Pressure Gauge and Pump

In order to get the correct tire pressure reading, you have to use a quality gauge. I highly recommend you just get PressCheck Air Iire Pressure Gauge. It is fairly inexpensive and meant for dirt bikes.

The post Dirt Bike Tire Pressure PSI What’s Recommended appeared first on Dirt Bike It.

Modern 2 stroke dirt bike engines are akin to works of art, their magic lying in their simplicity. Their ‘power centers’ consist of only three main moving parts, the crankshaft, connecting rod and piston. Unlike their 4 stroke counterparts, 2 stroke engines do not contain valves, giving them a lighter weight.

2 stroke engines fire, producing power, once for each revolution of the crankshaft; 4 stroke engines fire once per every alternate revolution. The combustion chamber, each time the piston goes up, is filled with an intricately balanced combination of oil, petrol and air. This intricately balanced combination is compressed, then the spark plug ignites it, resulting in an explosion, forcing the piston to go back down. The process is repeated. There are two strokes of the piston for each single ignition, a compression stroke and a combustion stroke, giving the 2 stroke engine twice the amount of explosive power of a 4 stroke engine of equal size, the 4 stroke engine needing 4 strokes of the piston for one ignition.

Diagram of a 2 stroke dirt bike engine:

Engine maintenance

Engine maintenance is one of the most important aspects of enjoying your dirt bike. There are three main factors to keep in mind when it comes to proper engine maintenance: air filters, engine oil and coolant.

Air filters

This is one of the most important parts of dirt bike engine maintenance. If your air filter is dirty, your bike cannot function properly, its airflow being compromised. It needs air and fuel to function properly. Dirty air filters, not properly oiled, can damage the engine, allowing dirt particles to get inside the combustion chamber, scratching it from within, damaging the piston and other parts. A dirty air filter will wear out an engine pretty quickly. You probably want to clean your air filter after every single ride.

In order to clean your air filter, you will need oil, cleaner and rim grease. Put about 3-4 caps of cleaner into a tub of warm water. Remove the dirty air filter from your bike and submerge it in the tub. Be careful not to twist and turn it roughly, or you will end up damaging it. Instead, squeeze it gently in the tub until it is clean. Rinse the cleaner off of it under clear tap water and then squeeze all the water out, leaving it to dry. Once it is dry, you can apply oil on it. Make sure you apply the oil evenly, not concentrating it on one part of the filter. Lastly, go back to your bike and clean the rim with a paper towel, checking the air box for dirt. Then apply rim grease on your rim and reattach the air filter, and you are good to go.

Engine oil

Dirt bike engines are not the same as car engines; dirt bike engines, being small and working hard with high compression ratios, need their oil changed more often. Your 2 stroke engine should have its oil changed after about every 10 hours of riding, or somewhere around that frequency. You can use the oil of your choosing. It doesn’t matter what oil you use as long as you change it frequently.

Coolant

Your engine has to remain cool at all times; you have to make sure that you have enough coolant in your radiator. Even if you have a clean air filter and you’ve changed your oil, having insufficient coolant will damage your engine. So, open the cap of your radiator before each ride, and check to make sure that you have enough coolant. If you can see the level of the fluid, it generally means that you have enough coolant. If not, fill it up with your coolant of choice.

Radiators usually depend on airflow to keep them cool. If you ride your bike in an environment that is a bit tricky, requiring you to go slow, you may not be able to create the airflow your radiator needs. In this case, we recommend buying a fan and connecting it to your battery so that it can prevent your radiator from heating up.

Engine mods

Sometimes the factory settings on your dirt bike may not be up to your specifications. In such cases, you can make mods to the engine yourself, mods usually designed to make the bike faster and more powerful. But before you do this, you need to make sure that you are fairly good at riding your bike in the first place. Otherwise, the mods won’t really help you and may actually end up doing some harm. Here are a few mods you can make to your 2 stroke dirt bike engine, making it faster and more powerful.

Jetting

In case your bike is not properly jetted, it will not run in the smooth manner that it should and could lead to a detonated engine. You want to down jet to the edge of detonation, and no further. You have to live on the edge to generate maximum power. You want to be careful, however, to achieve the right balance. If your bike is already perfectly jetted, putting an aftermarket pipe on it will make it run lean, resulting in making is slower and seriously harming your engine because it won’t be receiving enough fuel. If, on the other hand, you make your bike too rich, you will go through your spark plugs really quickly, also causing your bike to sputter, cough and be generally sluggish. Too lean and too rich, both extremes are bad for your bike. Some people wrongly think that too rich is alright, it not being bad for your engine. But it is bad for your engine with the carbon buildup from the unburned gas. When you modify your bike, you want to make sure it is finely tuned, otherwise it will run worse than when you first got it.

Make your stinger ID larger

In most performance system, the exhaust system’s stinger ID is too large. You can increase your bike’s power by adding a restriction to your stinger ID. However, be careful to do this in baby steps, as if you go too far, it will lead to detonation.

Squish clearance

The squish gap is the gap between the piston and the squish band in the head of the engine at the time when the piston is atop the center. A good rule of thumb is that you want the piston to nearly touch the head at peak rpm. You can achieve this by running a tighter squish gap. The way to do this is to tighten the squish gap until the piston touches the head, then go back a tiny bit, so that there is no gap at all at peak rpm. Having no gap prevents the collection of mixture in the squish band, meaning there is nothing to detonate there. You can tighten your squish band by sanding down the head or the cylinder. This will increase your bike’s power and reduce chances of detonation.

Inspect pipe

Check for and eliminate any resistance that might be there in your exhaust system. Make sure that the pipe is clean from within, and the changes in its sections are distinct.

Intake length

Straighten and shorten your intake length. This will give you better power.

Port match

Match the ports in your cylinder to the ports in your case. Some engines can be really bad from factory in this regard. This is not dangerous at all; it is just a good practice.

With electric start

Two stroke dirt bikes have recently been manufactured with an electric start by companies like KTM. It’s a great addition to two-stroke engine dirt bikes. Now, if the bike were to stall in some ugly place or if you were to fall from a hillside, you will be extremely happy to be able to restart everything with the press of a button. The new electric start models are said to weigh less than the old kick starters as well.

Dirt Bike Engine Rebuilt

Rebuilding a 2 stroke dirt bike engine might sound like it should be done by a maintenance professional, with many ordinary riders balking at the idea, but its really not. It may sound intricate and complicated, and, to be sure, it requires some patience and time, you can accomplish the task without facing too much difficulty.

The truth is, it is not rocket science, and more or less boils down to changing the piston, some rings and gaskets.

However, despite the process being relatively straightforward, most riders have a propensity to wait for too long, until the top end of their bikes absolutely cannot be ridden. The symptoms that your top end needs urgent replacing include but are not limited to what is referred to as piston slap, engine noise and a lack in horsepower. Piston slap refers to a situation where the piston is slapping against the wall of the cylinder, either because there is a lack of compression or because the cylinder is worn out. You will know it when you see it or hear it to be more accurate; it is annoying and loud.

To rebuild the top end, you need knowledge of general maintenance, such as filter and oil change. So, the best advice in this regard is to read the service manual, following the recommendations that it contains. Don’t wait too long, or you risk damaging the engine. And even if you don’t, your bike will perform poorly, and you won’t enjoy riding it.

Get the service manual in case you don’t already have one. You’ll need to wear specs and get the specified torque for your dirt bike model. Make sure you read the service manual carefully, not missing out on anything, using it to guide your entire process. We are providing a general guideline here, but the service manual is what you need to get into the nitty-gritty of the specific nuts and bolts.

You will need a ratchet set and torque wrench. Make sure you first give your bike a thorough cleaning, preventing dirt from getting inside your engine’s casing once its broken down. To reach the top end you will have to remove several parts.

• The drain coolant
• You will have to remove the seat and then the fuel tank. You don’t have to remove the radiator.
• You will have to remove the top, the motor mount
• You will have to remove the head and the cylinder

In order to rebuild the top end, you will have to:

• Remove the old piston
• Carefully inspect the cylinder, making sure that it is not scarred
• Measure the cylinder
• Put the rings on to the piston
• Use the circlips, needle bearing and pin, connecting the new piston with the rod, coating the piston with premix or assembly lube.
• Slide the cylinder over your new piston with the use of new gaskets. Torque the bolts of the cylinder
• Place the head onto the cylinder, as well as the new gasket. Torque the bolts of the head.
• Replace the radiator, the fuel tank as well as the seat
• Ass the fresh coolant
• Now start your bike

To detect cylinder scarring you must know what it looks like. In case you have never before seen it, it appears as vertical scratches within the cylinder. If you find cylinder scarring, don’t more ahead with rebuilding the top end. First, purchase a new cylinder (this option is on the more expensive side, but gets your job done quicker). If you don’t want to purchase a new cylinder, you can re-plate the existing one (this option is more time consuming but less expensive). You will not be able to use your bike for a week or a couple of weeks depending on which option you choose to fix your scarred cylinder.

The cylinder also needs to be measured in order to gauge the size of the piston that will fit inside. You cannot simply install a new piston, putting everything together again, even in case your cylinder is not scarred and looks like it is ready for riding. You have to measure it for the right size first.

The reason for this is that the bore of the cylinder undergoes expansion after being subjected to the piston’s up and down movement for long periods of time, a movement that transforms the shape of the cylinder oblong. In such situations, the cylinder will look alright on the surface, but you will need a caliper of gauge to measure its new size. In case you don’t have either of these, consult a mechanic or make a purchase.

Once you have sized you cylinder, you can breathe easy, now knowing what sized piston you need, enabling you to use the one you have or order a bigger sized one. If you cylinder is way too large for the pistons you have available, you will have to send it to be worked on by machines taking the form of re-sleeving or plating. This is a big and intricate process, not something you can do at home without the proper equipment.

You shouldn’t forego the process of cylinder sizing, installing a piston that doesn’t fit correctly. It will result in reduced power and low compression. You can additionally expect the engine to fail sooner or later and also expect internal parts to get broken.

Once you have the right sized piston, replace the rings, the seals and the needle bearing. Then put everything together back the way it was again. Make sure to add the new coolant; you don’t want your bike overheating. Start the engine, allowing it to warm up; then shut it down again, allowing it to cool down. Restart and ride at an easy pace for about 15 minutes. After this, shut it off and allow it to cool down once more. Then you’re ready to go full throttle.

Dual exhaust

We recommend not going for a dual exhaust on your dirt bike. Since it has only one cylinder, it needs just the single exhaust. Besides which it would not look good. It would also make your exhausts twice as heavy. It would be twice as bad in case of a crash. And it will make your bike run worse than it does currently.

Oil in exhaust and exhaust leak

If your two stroke exhaust is leaking oil, you need to clean it and learn how to prevent it from making a mess. It’s nothing to worry about; it’s pretty normal, especially if your bike’s running rich. Oil leaks most often where the pipe meets the cylinder, though it can also happen where the silencer meets the pipe. Oil leakage is caused by the wearing down of O-rings that sit between the pipe and the cylinder. These rings get worn out by the vibration of the engine and the pipe. To stop the oil from leaking, simply replace the O-rings periodically. Check your pipe mounts and pipe springs to stop the pipe from vibrating excessively and wearing down the O-rings quicker.

Dirt Bike Engine Facts

In four stroke engines, there are four important steps in the power producing cycle: compression power, exhaust and intake, each step possessing its own stroke of the piston. Two stroke engines carry out the same four processes but in only two strokes of the piston. In simple two strokes, the moving piston’s underside and crankcase are used to freshly charge the pump. These are officially referred to as “crankcase-scavenged two strokes.”

When compressed, the two-stroke piston rises, its underside pulling a partial vacuum within the crankcase. Some kind of intake port opens to allow air within the crankcase using a carburetor. When the piston is near the top of the head, a spark ignites the compressed mixture. The mixture is burned, transforming its chemical energy into heat energy, raising its pressure, the pressure forcing the piston down, the crankshaft rotating. The piston, as it goes down, exposes an exhaust port within the cylinder wall, where the gas that has been spent goes out. Simultaneously, the piston compresses the mixture of air and fuel underneath the crankcase.

This is another thing that separates 2 strokes from 4 strokes: their exhaust and intake are both integrated within the same compression movement, meaning 2 strokes don’t need valves because the compression chamber’s wall contains an exhaust port as well as an inlet.

Gas/mixture ratio

It can be challenging to mix the correct ratios for your 2 stroke dirt bikes. But it is essential to perform this task correctly, or you risk causing great damage to your engine, if not destroying it. Many riders appear to be confused over what ratio to mix the oil and fuel at. Your best bet, the easiest and safest bet, is to follow the ratio that your manufacturer recommends, since the manufacturer has the greatest knowledge of the engine, even more than the professional mechanic. The right ratios help keep the rings and piston adequately lubricated.

Upgrades

Checking for upgrades is common amongst dirt bike riders. It is possible to upgrade pretty much all aspects of your dirt bike but many of these are unnecessary. At the same time there are some upgrades that are worth making, improving your bike’s handling and power and its performance on the track. You may want extra power, or to replace worn out old parts or a simple replacement upgrade or perhaps just something to make your ride smoother. In all these situations selecting the right aftermarket upgrades can pay off immensely. But be careful not to waste money on unneeded upgrades. Here are some upgrades we recommend.

Dirt biking skills

Upgrading your riding skills doesn’t require any money unless you decide to take classes. But it will pay off better than any other upgrade you will make, so practice, practice, practice!

Suspension

This will be an expensive upgrade, one that is difficult to install. But you will definitely notice a difference in your ride afterward. You may consider hiring a professional mechanic to do the job for you.

Pipe

This can also make a big difference to your riding experience. But the kind of upgrade you make will depend upon your riding style and will take a bit more research accordingly.

Reeds

Upgrading reeds results in better airflow for your cylinder and better response of the throttle. Carbon fiber is used to manufacture aftermarket reeds, a material that helps eliminating the flutter at high RPMs.

Gearing

And upgrade to your sprocket and chain will result in improvements nearly as great as when you upgrade your suspension. Your goals with dirt bike riding should guide the changes you make to gearing.

Steering Damper

These help in stabilizing the handlebars. They also reportedly reduce arm pump. There are a few steering dampers the permit adjustments to your steering during your ride. They are particularly useful upgrades for off-road riders, absorbing the impact from the rough terrain, protecting your arms and hands.

Miscellaneous

Upgrades to your seat, levers, foot pegs and grips can help you feel more comfortable on your dirt bike. They might not improve your bike’s performance, but comfort is also a factor. Plus, such upgrades can increase your bike’s life-span.

2 stroke dirt bike wheelies

The key to performing a wheelie on a two stroke is keeping it at the low end of the power band to stop you from looping out. Keep the throttle between one-fourth and half to start the wheelie, then reduce the throttle to less than one-fourth to maintain it. Keeping the throttle minimal and smooth is crucial. Keep the engine revs low and go slow.

2 stroke dirt bike weight

2 stroke dirt bikes’ weight varies according to their type and make but they are generally lighter than 4 stroke bikes.

Gear box oil

To change your gear box oil, you will need rubber gloves, a torque wrench to undo the bolts, your choice of oil, a funnel and a measuring cup. Turn on your bike and let it warm up for a couple of minutes. Take out the plug from your gear box using your torque wrench to undo the bolt and let the oil drain. Clean your plug before putting it back in. Make sure all the oil drains from the bike; you may want to shake your bike a little to accomplish this; it may take approximately ten minutes. Your bike will probably need 700ml-800ml of oil but check the engine to be sure. Then insert your funnel into the gear box and use it to fill it up. There will be an oil level check screw to help you make sure that it is properly filled up. Once you have checked this you are good to go. Change gear box oil after about every 20 hours of riding.

Brands

2 stroke dirt bikes may not be as popular as they once were but there is no substitute for them. Here we are going to take a look at the best models on the market, some models being brand new, others old classics. Some sources erroneously report that 2 stroke dirt bikes are not being produced any longer. They, as we’ve said, are mistaken. Other sources report that it is difficult to maintain 2 stroke dirt bikes. This is also incorrect; if you’re good at maintaining things generally, maintaining a 2 stroke dirt bike won’t be a problem. A third misconception that appears to be prevalent is that you should not purchase old 2 stroke dirt bikes because they will be too ragged to ride. There may be some truth to that, but you should bear in mind that 2 stroke dirt bikes are designed to take a lot of punishment. They can handle it.

Many big brands are still manufacturing new 2 stroke dirt bikes, albeit not to the same extent as they did previously. Ever since the 2 stroke dirt bike went downhill, manufacturers have become hesitant when it comes to developing new 2 stroke engines. However, others are still going strong. Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki all have 2 stroke dirt bikes in their lineups. In Europe, Gas-Gas, Husqvarna and KTM are subsisting on 2 stroke machines. The 2 stroke era may not quite be dead, but it certainly is dying. KTM have come out with a fuel-injected 2 stroke engine, an engine that could revolutionize dirt biking in the future. Honda are reported to be developing something similar to this if rumors are to be believed.

Even though new models are being manufactured, we’ve included a few older ones in this list. After all, everyone can’t afford a new bike; and when you’re buying your first dirt bike, you may choose to go with a second-hand one, investing the money you save into a new piston and other dirt bike parts.

Suzuki RM250

The Suzuki RM250 is arguably the best used dirt bike on the market, one definitely worth bearing in mind for those in the market for 2 stroke dirt bikes. We particularly recommend the models that were manufactured between the years 2003 and 2008. We most recommend the 2008 model, that being the last year that the RM250 was produced, the model being the ‘latest’ in the series. In its time, the RM250 counted amongst the giants of motocross sports and its later models were manufactured to meet extremely high standards. The RM250 receives lavish praise for its fast and powerful 2 stroke engine as well as its springy suspension. If you are aware of a late 2000’s model up for sale, you may want to go for it, it being very hard to go wrong with.

KTM 250SX

The KTM 250SX is a heavy-duty dirt bike, one that ticks off all the right boxes. It has garnered worldwide praise for its excellent 2 stroke engine, reliable, powerful and fast and capable of taking a lot of punishment. It is arguably the fastest 250cc 2 stroke dirt bike on the market, a claim that we are happy to support. It is a little pokey and one of its downsides is it suspension, a problem that has plagued KTM. However, KTM riders will be accustomed to this and won’t mind as much. We recommend the SX motocross version, a version that contains both, a function for started electrically as well as a function for kick starting. KTM bikes in general are a bit on the expensive side, so finding one that’s extremely cheap is highly unlikely. You may not, therefore, want to go for a second-hand KTM, but purchase a new one, should you have the money to spare. These dirt bikes are still being manufactured.

Kawasaki KX500

This model first entered the fray as far back as 1983. It had already gained legendary status back then. It is 499cc, possessing a single cylinder. It is an absolute powerhouse of a 2 stroke dirt bike, with some going so far as to refer to it as being amongst the greatest dirt bikes in history when it comes to power. It won a vast number of racing competitions the world over, before being discontinued in 2004. Incredibly powerful, furious and fast, this 2 stroke dirt bike is for the aficionados of horsepower. Being immensely powerful in their prime, these bikes are readily available today, the older models being as cheap as $500. However, you may want to pay a bit more than that for a dirt bike that’s better in condition and newer, something around $2500. Getting parts for the models manufactured between 2000 and 2004 is easy as well.

Yamaha YZ250

The Yamaha YZ250 is more recent, possessing a history that is both illustrious and long, dating back to 1974. However, you probably don’t want a 1974 model unless you happen to be a proper vintage aficionado; otherwise you will probably prefer something more recent. Yamaha, fortunately, are still producing the YZ250. But in case your budget doesn’t allow you to purchase something brand new, we highly recommend any model from 2005 and beyond. The two stroke dirt bike possesses a 250cc engine, water-cooled, claiming 32lb-ft of torque and 48.8hp. It’s lightweight at only 212lbs, a machine that is impressive and beautiful. One drawback of earlier models is the suspension, but the 2006 model and beyond came with an upgraded suspension. The dirt bike has won an impressive 14 motocross and supercross titles combined. The starting price of newer models is $7,399.

Honda CR250R

Honda stopped manufacturing 2 stroke dirt bikes in 2007. The CR250R had been in production all the way back since 1972, possessing a history to rival that of the Yamaha above, in fact with even more titles to its name. It is still available second-hand and for extremely good prices, some bikes still in outstanding condition going for around $1000, an excellent deal.

Yamaha YZ125

For some riders, the Yamaha YZ125 is superior to the larger Yamaha YZ250. It is recommended for people who aren’t as proficient at dirt biking as others. It is small, weighing 190lbs, but it packs a punch, its power sufficient to take you over all kinds of dirt trails. It possesses a 124cc, water-cooled 2 stroke engine. This bike is indestructible, yet wouldn’t hurt you if it falls on you, which is inevitable in dirt biking. We recommend models from 2005 and beyond; they can be purchased relatively cheaply at $1500, although a brand-new model of Yamaha MSRP will cost $6,499.

Husqvarna CR125

Husqvarna represents one of the final mainstays of powerful and furious 2 stroke dirt bikes. Unfortunately, however, the dirt bike was discontinued in 2013. You should bear in mind that this beast is not for the faint of heart. Ostensibly, it seems innocuous, a 124cc 2 stroke engine, but it is modeled along established racing technology. Here’s one dirt bike that’s hard to get a hold of in the market. So, if possible, get it when you can, even if the price is a bit high; it will be well worth the money you spend on it.

Gas-Gas EC 300

Gas-Gas is a Spanish brand, not as widely known as large Japanese firms or, for that matter, European ones (like Husqvarna and KTM), but it is not to be discounted. We strongly recommend their 2018 EC300, but their previous models, 300 and 250, are also worth the money you spend on them. Gas-Gas has been bought out by electric bike manufacturers, so the EC300, according to some sources, will be their last gas-powered motorcycle. Purchasing their last 2 stroke dirt bike would be a fitting way to commemorate this.

Honda CR500R

This 2 stroke dirt bike can be seen as the CR250’s big brother, its reliability at par with the best. A second feature is that it is more powerful compared to the CR250, which counts in its favor for the majority of dirt bikers. While this bike wasn’t idolized as much as the Kawasaki KX500, we believe that it is the better bike. Because of its understated reputation, you are likely to purchase this one much cheaper than its competitor. This is Honda’ most powerful motocross bike, with a 491cc, liquid cooled 2 stroke engine. Some riders have complained that the bike is too difficult to ride because of how powerful it is. You may have to spend $4500 and above for this one.

KTM 300 EXC

This bike’s engine has been referred to as greatest 2 stroke engine when it comes to power. The KTM 300 EXC is an extraordinary dirt bike, with KTM proclaiming it to be the best bike for riding off-road and racing, even when competing against 4 stroke bikes. This bike has been available for a while. If you’re unable to purchase it brand new, we recommend you purchase a used model, anything after 2004, preferably after 2008, the 2008 model coming with an engine that is extremely powerful and a bike that is very comfortable, buffeted with an electric start. Prices for these are usually on the high side, but with a little bit of luck you can buy one for about $3500. A brand new one is on the expensive side at $9,099.

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